Upfitter wiring tutorial for the 2017?

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by Shark, Mar 24, 2017.

  1. Shark

    Shark Active Member

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    I'm looking to wire up some lights for the 2017 and was wondering if there is a decent tutorial out there yet on wiring the upfitter switches? Do you still have to get under the dash and splice together 1" long wire leads like in the Gen 1? That was a total pain in the ass. Any info you can point me towards?
     
  2. gunnersguru

    gunnersguru Full Access Member

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    check out the bajamod.com
     
  3. Giorgiob

    Giorgiob Full Access Member

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    Morning. Got this from another forum user, so can't take credit. It's a very good explanation of how it works. Pretty simple once you understand the wiring layout.

    ---End Quote---
    I'll try and help- Yes, you can wire your fog lights directly to the powered Aux wire in the engine bay (assuming you don't exceed the rated amperage) without having go into the cab at all. Looking at the wiring harness behind the battery, there are two bundles of wires for the Aux circuits. I'll call the powered bundle Group A, and the unpowered/pass-through bundle Group B. I found Group A (powered) on the left-hand side of the wiring harness, while Group B (pass-through) on the right-hand side of the harness. Here's the bitch of it- Ford folded up and wrapped these two Groups onto the main harness with black tape, and they're a PITA to see if you don't know what you're looking for. Nobody likes to start yanking on wires in a $60K+ new vehicle, but trust me, they're there. I recommend you check your manual addendum for the colors of the various Aux switches to help you spot the correct colors and verify you've got the right wires. They will be in groups of six with the ends dipped in an insulating plastic- very distinct. The wires are also different gauge sizes corresponding to the amperage rating, and the 5A Aux wires are really thin (not sure what gauge) which may surprise you.

    The Group A/Powered wires are controlled by the interior Aux switches, and you can wire directly to them as they are controlled by a relay and fused from the factory (check the amp ratings again and use the right wire!). The Group B wires are only pass-through wires that go from the engine bay into the passenger footwell. You can use the Group B wires to run power from an Aux switched circuit into the interior for use by something like a dash cam or radar detector. You would do this by connecting the proper Group A wire to the proper Group B wire in the engine bay (splice them together), and then finding the proper Group B wire in the passenger footwell and connecting it to your accessory. FYI- the wires in the footwell as also a major bitch to spot and pull out, just like in the engine bay but worse (at least in my case). As an engineer and former mechanic, it kills me that Ford couldn't make the wires easier to spot and access, and maybe make them 6 inches longer for convenience. Should be easier to use a feature like the Aux switches for the regular joe.

    For me, I'll have my driving lights on Aux 1 and Aux 2, and I use Aux 6 for powering my dashcam on and off as needed for privacy. Very happy with the layout. Just take your time.

    Hope that helps.
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  4. Rapere1

    Rapere1 Full Access Member

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    It's also in the owners manual
     
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  5. shelteredraptor

    shelteredraptor Full Access Member

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    These are a piece of cake compared to the Gen1- I (and everyone that messed with them) cursed the asshole bean counter that couldn't have the heart to add 6 more inches of wire so you could actually work normally.
     
  6. rob7765

    rob7765 Member

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  7. Shark

    Shark Active Member

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    This is good info! Thanks
     
  8. Giorgiob

    Giorgiob Full Access Member

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    Hi all. Quick question. What do folks reccomend as a good ground point for the ground wire when connecting lights to these upfitter switches? Any tricks or special connectors to secure them well so they don't get lose?

    Thanks
     
  9. blackhole

    blackhole Full Access Member

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    ya they went a little cheap on wire length and amp fuse per switch. most any good bar is way above 15amps. not sure why they just didnt copy the f250 amp sizes.. but at least they did make it a little easier running the groupA and groupB for us.
     

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